Just finished winterizing the plumbing using air compressor. Feel good about it, apart from the water pump...
There is no winterizing attachment on the supply side of the pump, so you cannot attach air pressure there.
The manual says to simply let the pump run dry for 30 seconds.
Here is my complete process for anyone interested:
- Empty fresh water tank
- Empty low point drains
- Empty water heater (I left it unplugged afterwards to allow evaporation for a few days)
- Bypass water heater (flipping three valves)
- Then I blew out the gravity fill with the fresh water drain open (my extra step, not in manual)
- Take out the water filter (I left it detached to allow for additional evaporation)
- Open a faucet and run water pump dry for 30 sec (filter removed)
- Connect compressed air 45 psi to city water
- One faucet open at a time, running lots of air through the lines (total of 6 faucets + toilet flush)
- Open one low point drain at a time, running air
- With air off, I ran the water pump a second time
- Then I ran air through the lines again, until no moisture came out
- Empty black and gray tanks (whatever water had collected after the blow out)
- Fill sink drain and shower drain with antifreeze and cover toilet ball valve with antifreeze
- Empty b/g tanks again, watching pink come out, confirming that the p-traps would be full
I think I ran the pump 3 or 4 times, (always waiting a bit so it doesn't overheat) alternated with blowing out the other lines. Still feel unsure that it is really dry.
Am I overthinking? The manual after all says that this is the procedure and it should be enough.
Has anyone done this in past winters and had success?
Last possible step: remove water pump and take it inside for the winter (overkill?)
Thanks for reading. Any input appreciated!